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Santorini: the volcano, the caldera and the crowds

In depth: island story·Santorini

The back story

About Santorini: the volcano, the caldera and the crowds

Santorini’s caldera towns are the most photographed and romantic places in the Aegean, and also very popular and busy. Understanding the volcano, and timing your days, makes all the difference.

The eruption

Around 3,600 years ago the volcano at the heart of the island erupted in one of the largest eruptions in human history. The centre collapsed and the sea flooded in, leaving the great caldera you see today, ringed by cliffs of lava and ash. The Bronze Age town of Akrotiri was buried and preserved. The volcano is still active: the dark islands of Nea and Palea Kameni in the middle of the bay are its youngest children.

The caldera towns

Fira, Firostefani, Imerovigli and Oia line the cliff top, with cave houses carved into the soft volcanic rock, blue domes and infinity pools hanging over the drop. At sunset they are breathtaking, and crowded: cruise ships and day trips bring many thousands of visitors in high season.

Santorini is the rim of a volcano that the sea poured into: the view is its history.

The other Santorini

Away from the rim, you find wine villages such as Pyrgos and Megalochori, basket-shaped vines growing in volcanic soil, black-sand beaches at Perissa and Kamari, and tavernas where locals eat.

Our advice: stay at least three nights, ideally one on the caldera; walk the cliff path from Fira to Oia early in the morning; watch at least one sunset away from Oia; and visit in May, June, September or October if you can. Check cruise-ship days and plan Oia and Fira around them.

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Opening hours, prices and seasonal openings change, so please check with Santorini: the volcano, the caldera and the crowds before you go.

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